Where artists' books and the book arts meet online...
A venue to discuss different ways to get text into an artist's book. These days there are so many processes: handwriting, inkjet, offset, letterpress, silkscreen, and many more... let's talk about it.
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Started by Tracy Turner. Last reply by Charles Brownson Oct 20, 2010. 1 Reply 0 Likes
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Comment by Charles Brownson on May 10, 2012 at 6:35 I wonder if release paper works? Seems unlikely.
Comment by Aine Scannell on May 10, 2012 at 6:26 Oh and I forgot to add that transferring directly from label backing paper is more likely to work even better. I purchased a product from IMcClains printmaking supplies (USA) and that works really well. I am finding now that doing on to dry paper seems to be best to avoid the ink 'blurring'.
heres the link to it.
Comment by Charles Brownson on May 10, 2012 at 6:16 Aine, thanks for the information about inkjet transfers using acetate, especially the tip that it can be resoaked. This is a way of doing collage that avoids glue and permits overlays. Nice.
Comment by Aine Scannell on May 7, 2012 at 11:20 I have just been doing inkjet transfers to Somerset etching paper as well as to Hahnemuhle. I used the shiny side of the acetate (the non inkjet coated side) and then tried a transfer onto dry paper, also to soaked and blotted paper (as per usual procedure in printmaking)
It works and you just need to do some tests with the paper you are using as it behaves differently with those variables. You have to print it out and do the transfer straight away and be organized about it. I did it by burnishing with back of spoon as well as by running it through the etching press.
All worked. Bear in mind that depending on the kind of paper used - a 100 dpi image or a 300 dpi image may work better. BUT you must do the tests before doing it in your "proper" project.
For example the Hahnemuhle worked better when the image was printed at 300dpi as the surface is a somewhat 'pitted' whereas for the somerset paper a 100 dpi image worked fine. Its a somewhat smoother paper.
Another thing I found is that ONCE the transfer on the paper has been in the "drying stack" overnight with tissue paper/ blotting paper plus fibreboards with heavy metal plate on top..................
IT CAN then BE RESOAKED -- if for example you want to do another intaglio printmaking technique on top. I prefer to transfer like this because I hate the "plasticized" surface you can get with some of the transfer papers and liquids/gels.
Hope somebody finds this useful. By the way I use an Epson 2400 which is a pigment based inkjet printer.
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Comment by Charles Brownson on September 9, 2011 at 17:03
Comment by Charles Brownson on November 17, 2010 at 9:21
Comment by Caren Florance on November 17, 2010 at 6:38
Comment by Charles Brownson on November 16, 2010 at 23:47
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